Monday, January 30, 2012

What makes the bottom leaves on tomato and pepper plants turn yellow??

I planted my garden a couple weeks ago and when it doesn't rain for a few days, i water my tomato and pepper plants. Now the bottom leaves on them are turning a yellowish color. Is that because of not enough water?? Do i need to keep watering them?? Please help, would like some fresh tomatoes and peppers.

What makes the bottom leaves on tomato and pepper plants turn yellow??
The bottom leaves always turn yellow and fall off, after more leaves have been created on top of those. But that's the bottom ones only. If they are going yellow up more than one or possibly 2 sets of leafs, then you are giving them TOO MUCH water.
Reply:You are either not watering it enough or those lower leaves are not receiving enough sunlight.
Reply:Lack of water can be one cause....and it is normal for the bottom leaves, to turn yellow...as long as that is the only problem OK.....but.....





Early blight (Alternaria leaf spot) (Figure 5) is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani. Symptoms become prevalent during the hotter months. This disease produces brown to black, target-like spots on older leaves. If severe, the fungus also attacks stems and fruit. Affected leaves may turn yellow, then drop, leaving the fruit exposed to sunburn. Sanitation is the best control. Remove all diseased plant tissue on the ground, as the fungus overwinters on leaf debris. Do not plant tomatoes in the same place next year. Space plants farther apart to improve air circulation. Avoid overhead irrigation. If the infestation is heavy, sulfur dust may help protect new leaves from infection.





You and everybody growing tomatoes are having the same problem. Tomato plants are developing brown spots on the lower foliage. This is the result of a fungus infecting the foliage causing a disease known as early blight. Early blight is an annual problem for most gardeners. It normally develops into a problem when plants have a heavy fruit set and the area has received rainfall. Spores from the fungus are spread to the lower foliage by wind and splashing rain. Leaves must be wet for infection to occur. At 50 degrees F. the leaves must be wet for 12 hours for infection, but at temperatures above 59 degrees F., the length of time for infection is only 3 hours. Leaf spot development is most severe during periods of cloudy days and high humidity. To control the fungus, foliage applications of a fungicide must be made every 7 days until moist conditions (dew included!) no longer exist. Applications should begin when the first fruit is slightly larger than a quarter. Chlorothalonil (Ortho Multipurpose Fungicide or Fertilome Broad Spectrum Fungicide) and mancozeb hydroxide (Kocide 101) are fungicides used on tomatoes for early blight. The copper fungicides also are affective against the foliage and fruit-infecting bacterial pathogens. Benlate (Greenlight Systemic Fungicide) should also be added every second spray application to prevent Septoria leaf spot. All listed fungicides can be mixed with insecticides or other fungicides except the copper-based materials (Kocide). The copper fungicides have a high pH which will reduce the life of many insecticides and some fungicides. Kocide is the only effective organic control for this pestilence.


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