My cherry tomato plant has yellow leaves and brown spots. What is causing this and what can I do?

I have a cherry tomato plant in my yard and I noticed that a lot of leaves are turning yellow and some leaves look burned. I water my plant every night because the soil seems to be dried because of the sun. Please help and some advice...oh, do I need to feed and fertilize this plant?

My cherry tomato plant has yellow leaves and brown spots. What is causing this and what can I do?
kat,





Probably too much water. Put some mulch around the base - this will help keep some moisture in and prevent surface drying. I would feed them with Miracle Grow about every other week. Follow the packing directions for amounts.





Water - about a quart per day (do it in early morning - doing watering at night promotes rotting) until the plant gets bigger - increase your water as it grows. And GOOD LUCK!
Reply:To much sun and caterpillars that's what happened to my beans.
Reply:It sounds like your plants have tomato blight. There is a


lot of information on the net on what to do about it. Here


is a link with some good information:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/ya...





The most common tomato disease in this area that causes yellowing of leaves is early blight. I use cornmeal tea as a foliar spray a couple of times per week and it helps a lot. I have not had good results applying cornmeal to the soil. Believe me, if it worked for me, I wouldn't bother with spraying, lol. Soak a couple of cups of cornmeal in a gallon of water, strain into a two gallon sprayer and add an additional gallon of water, spray one or two times per week. This is my third year using this method, and everything else I have tried has failed.


http://www.dirtdoctor.com/forum/archive....





Tomato Diseases http://www.oldhouseweb.com/gardening/gar...





Diagnostic Tool: http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.e...





Early blight (Alternaria leaf spot) (Figure 5) is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani. Symptoms become prevalent during the hotter months. This disease produces brown to black, target-like spots on older leaves. If severe, the fungus also attacks stems and fruit. Affected leaves may turn yellow, then drop, leaving the fruit exposed to sunburn...


Fusarium wilt and Fusarium crown rot symptoms (Figure 7) begin as yellowing of older leaves. With Fusarium crown rot, the leaves often turn brown or black and eventually wilt


http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden...





Early blight is another plant disease. It begins on the oldest leaves, low on a plant where it is dark and moist. Leaves begin to look sickly, turn brown or yellow and hang loosely from the stem. Black spot appears in dark spots on foliage. Powdery mildew is a whitish powdery look on foliage. Brown patch and other fungal diseases are discoloration on foliage. Control all these fungal diseases with a baking soda spray. Mix four teaspoons with one teaspoon of a veggie oil or horticultural oil into one gallon of water.


Spray any of these solutions during the cool morning hours to avoid quick evaporation.





http://www.maggiesgarden.com/Organic_Gui...





Leaves, yellow and spotted:





The most likely cause is a fungal disease caused by a combination of moisture on the leaves, heat, and high humidity.





Use a fungicide before problems occur. Water directly to the roots. If you do use overhead sprinklers, use early in the day to allow the leaves to dry before nightfall. Thin plants to improve air circulation.





http://gardenhobbies.com/veggies/tomatop...





Two of the most common diseases of tomato are early blight and Septoria leaf spot.


http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/dp_hfrr/extensn...





The fungus is spread by spores that are carried by the wind or splashed in water. Germination of spores and infection require free moisture. Disease development stops in dry, hot weather.


http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r78310031...





Just when you think you've escaped tomato blight...


http://www.beginner-gardening.com/tomato...


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Fertilize on a regular basis. Early applications should be high in nitrogen. As blossoming occurs, switch to fertilizers which are higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. Too much Nitrogen fertilizer results in lots of lush green leaves, and little fruit. A fertilizer specifically formulated for tomatoes, will help to maximize your crop.


Try Jobes Fertilizer spikes.


Keep your tomato plant well watered. Deep watering is preferable, over more frequent, light watering. You want moisture to go deep to all the roots of the plant. Water directly to the roots. Keep water off the leaves if at all possible. Tomatoes are susceptible to plant disease that grows in wet, humid conditions.


http://www.gardenersnet.com/vegetable/to...





At the time of planting, put a little slow-release fertilizer in the soil, just below the root ball of each plant. Also, sprinkle a little of the same fertilizer around the plant. Fertilize again with the slow-release fertilizer in 6 to 8 weeks. Fertilize with a soluble fertilizer at anytime if the new leaves begin to yellow. Fertilizers do no build quality soils. Instead, compost routinely mixed into the soil weeks before planting will be the tonic that most plants need.


http://lee.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulturearch...





Tomato plants need a constant supply of fertilizer if they are to produce continually all season. If not fertilized properly, tomato plants will set few fruit clusters, then stop setting fruit clusters altogether. The fertilizers added to the soil during preparation, at planting and in starter solutions will supply the early needs of tomato plants. As tomato plants continue to grow, start sidedressing when the first fruit is about the size of a half dollar. Repeat this process every two to four weeks with about 1/4 cup of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8- 8 or 10-10-10 per plant.


http://apps.caes.uga.edu/urbanag/Annuals...








Good luck!
Reply:you should start watering in the morning. water staying on the leave throughout the night will cause the leaves to get moldy. pick off the leaves that are yellowing.

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